Linen

“The history of linen

Linen is the oldest textile in the world, predating cotton and possible even wool, and is know to have been in use during the Stone Age”…

Early history

Linen is believed to have first been systematically cultivated in Mesopotamia, in the Middle East region know as the ‘cradle of civilization’, around 5000 to 6000 BC. The ancient Egyptians and Babylonians cultivated flax, which was then traded with other societies of the region by the Phoenicians. The ancient Egyptians developed a sophisticated linen ‘industy’; so valuable was the commodity that it was sometimes used as a form of currency. Linenwas seen as a symbol of light and purity, as much as it was a display of wealth for the afterlife. A shroud for an important Pharaoh would often consist of 1,000 m (over half a mile) of fine linen. Some of these shrouds were so finely spun and woven that they still cannot be replicated by modern methods. The linen curtains that shielded the tomb of Tutankhamun were found intact after over 3,000 years, examined by the British Museum and found to be structurally perfect after almost 3,500 years.

Among the earliest records documenting the manufacturing of linen are the ancient Greek tablets of Pylos. Concurrently, ancient Roman blueprints show that their manufacturing methods closely resembled current manufacturing processes”.

Segments from the book, “Fabric for Fashion” by Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston, 2010. Page 129, 130.

“The First World War

Until the twentieth century flax cultivation was very much a cottage industry; however, with increased mechanization the demand for factory-scale production became inevitable. Flax was vital supply during World War I, for both sides. It was used for tents, ropes and canvas for aeroplanes. The scale of production was insufficient to meet the voracious appetite of the war machine, so the supply was supplemented with cotton, which was more readily available due to its faster manufacturing methods. During the interwar years this less expensive, and perhaps more manageable, fabric eventually usurped linen’s position as the fabric of choice.

Postwar demands

In the industrialized world, linen, in common with other natural fibres, fell out of fashion after World War II. The new preference was for synthetics, which were more in tune with the contemporary preoccupation for modernity and expectations of an easy-car lifestyle, which better suited women’s new role in the workplace. High-maintenance fabrics, together with many other domestic chores, were replaced by anything and everything that could simplify life.

By the 1960s, in Great Britain and North America, linen had developed something of an esoteric status, appealing to only certain type of consumer. However, in the Mediterranean and South America linen continued to enjoy popularity, because synthetics were not abe to offer the same level of coolness and comfort in hot climates.

By the mid-1970s linen as a clothing fabric was at an all time low, with less than 10 per cent of linen produced being used for fashion textiles. Investment in the industry during the 1980s and into the 1990s resulted in technological developments that eliminated many of the traditional characteristics of linen that were not liked by the average high-street retail customer. Mechanical pre-treatments, enzymes and ammonia have made linen into a totally modern fabric that can be wrinkle-free, shrink-resistant and sometimes even non-iron.

By the mid-1990s linen’s unique appeal was once more appreciated, with around 70 per cent of linen production being again used for fashion fabrics. Today there are special linen and cotton blends being developed for use in denim production, with the aim of improving the feel of this fashion staple in hot and humid climates”.

Segments from the book, “Fabric for Fashion” by Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston, 2010. Page 132.

“Linen fibre

Grades of flax differ, with flax differ, with flax cultivated in Western Europe usually of a better quality.

Linen is the yarn and fabric made from the fibres of the stem of the flax plant, the only cellulosic plant indigenous to Western Europe. Flax, also referred to as linseed, is a commercial field crop plant grown for its fibres, which are used to manufacture cloth, rope or paper. Flax grows in many parts of the world but prefers temperate maritime climates and good soil to flourish well.

Flax stems vary form 60 to 120 cm in height, and the individual bast fibres are held together in ‘bundles’ by pectin. It takes about 100 days for the planted flax seed to grow to maturity and be ready for harvesting. The plant has small, five-petal flowers that are either blue or white and that blossom for only one day: the plants with blue flowers tend to yield better crops. The fruit capsules contain the seeds, which are converted to linseed oil”.

Segments from the book, “Fabric for Fashion” by Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston, 2010. Page 136.

“Ecological considerations

Linen is a more expensive fibre than cotton, with much more of a niche market, making it an ideal vehicle for organic cultivation and ecological production methods.

Flax is or can be an ecologically pertinent and sustainable crop. It grows best when crops are rotated annually, a sound method of crop production that does not strip the soil of all its nutrients. Flax is environmentally friendly, requiring little irrigation and energy to process, and is fully biodegradable. With Crop rotation it is not necessary to use chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and even when these are used flax requires only one-fifth of the pesticides and artificial fertilizers required for commercially grown cotton. Additionally, linen is up to 12 times stronger that the equivalent cotton product, which dramatically increases its life span, which means it does not need to be replaced so often.

Linen absorbs dye well, especially natural dyes, and does not require chemical treatments. It can be sun bleached to avoid the use of artificial agents.

Linen Production

The fundamental principles of producing linen yarn from the flax plant have changed little since early Roman times. However, modern technology has revolutionized the efficiency and flexibility of the yarn, and the speed at which it can now be produced.

Flax processing is labour-intensive, requiring skilled workers; however several by-products are also produced – including linseed oil for linoleum, soap, fuel and cattle feed – meaning there is minimum wastage”.

Segments from the book, “Fabric for Fashion” by Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston, 2010. Page 137, 138.

Posted by Alice